The framework that is the pitch portion of the BRFS gimbal.

This is the top plate of the enclosure that the gimbal is mounted to.  The two pine blocks are where the door hinges mount.

This is the shell for the gimbal mounting box.  I used pocket screws to avoid putting screws into the end-grain of the 3/4" plywood I used.

This is one of the two magnet retainers/flux ring assemblies.  The ones shown in these photos was made too large - I made them from a 1" slice of 1" EMT instead of a 3/4" slice.  I had to rebuild both of them. 

I wanted to point out the importance of reading the text carefully.  This is the correct mounting point for the pitch axis stop block.  The round pocket forward of the hing is the wrong place. :)

The pitch axis stop block.  The metal bracket below it is one of the roll axis spring retainers.

An end view of the magnet retainer/flux ring assembly with one of the mounting ears being epoxied in place.  The "new" set of these uses JB Weld for this instead of Five Minute Epoxy.

Just another view to illustrate some salient point I've since forgotten.

This is the brass tube used to hold the A1302 hall effect device in place.  I'm using a K&S Tubing cutter - you'll get a better cut unless you're some kind of wizard with a Dremel tool or a hack saw.

The original instructions said to use JB Weld (or similar) to epoxy the washer in place.  Being the impatient geek I am, used solder instead.  Turned out fantastic.

The two hall effect sensors wired up.  Pencil helps show how small these are.  (for the curious Pencil Geeks out there, it's a #2 Dixon Ticonderoga.  The One True Pencil.)

Attaching the lid of the gimbal box.  The two pockets you see in the lower of the side is where the hall effect sensor for the pitch axis will be mounted.

Top is all nice and attached.  I used 1-1/4" #6 flat head screws, square drive for this.

I've chamfered the outside edge of the top with a 45 degree bit and used a 1/2" round-over bit to smooth out the interior of the hole where the stick exits the box.

Here's the gimbal assembled.  The only components missing are the springs.  Instead of having the entire stick attached to the roll block, I've used a stub in order to be able to more easily disassemble everything for repair and/or maintenance.

Mike Powell has done a really good job with this design.  I'm very happy with how it's turned out so far.